Seven years ago after I moved back to St. Louis from DC, I decided to stop by Pizzeoli in Soulard after work. I hadn’t lived in St. Louis for an extended time since college, so I made it my mission to catch up on all the restaurants I’d missed. Pizzeoli was high on the list because pizza is one of my favorite foods of all time.

Also, I’d heard good things. There were whisperings around town that Scott Sandler, the proprietor, was something of a pizza wizard. He made Neapolitan-style pizza in a way no one in town had before. I was eager to try it, especially because I had yet to find really good Neapolitan-style pizza in St. Louis. I missed the chewy crust, the simplicity of the toppings, and the slightly charred flavor that comes from the wood-fired oven.

I got to Pizzeoli in Soulard, sat at the counter, and ordered a beer and a Margherita pizza. I still remember eating it to this day. It was so good, I almost blacked out for a second. “Wow,” I thought to myself. “This guy knows what he is doing.” The toppings were fresh and the crust was perfectly cooked. There was just the right amount of cheese and sauce. Because I had done my research, I looked over and recognized Scott operating the pizza oven not too far from where I was sitting. I struck up a conversation and learned more about how he got into the pizza business and his commitment to the craft.

Flash forward a few years: Scott decided to sell Pizzeoli to focus on his New York-style pizzeria, Pizza Head. I ran into him at a local lunch joint one day, and he asked me if I wanted to help him with a bagel pop up. I said yes, definitely, for a few reasons: One, there were no good bagels in St. Louis at the time, and I desperately wanted one. Two, I wanted the experience of doing a pop up, because a part of me to this day dreams about having my own café or eatery. Three, I thought it was a great business idea. I knew a lot of people would show up to buy bagels, and I told Scott that.

The bagels sold out in record time. Based on the success of the pop up, Scott started selling the bagels at Pizza Head. Then, that little thing called COVID happened. Scott sold Pizza Head, and I started wonder when I would ever have his pizza again.

Then I saw him start posting on Instagram earlier this year about his new restaurant, Pizza Via, in the Central West End. I went on opening weekend to check it out. The modest shop churns out some of the best pizza I’ve ever tasted. Scott said the oven is more West Coast-style than Neapolitan-style, but the effect is nothing less than extraordinary: Light, delicious pies with chewy crusts and just enough char around the edges, all with fresh toppings. I could eat a whole pizza by myself in one sitting, which makes sense because they’re on the smaller side. However, I usually save a couple slices for the next day to make it last longer.

My favorite pie at Pizza Via is the Spinach Pie, which is somewhat shocking and a testament to how good it is. I used to say that pizza only tasted good with tomato sauce. I would *never*, I mean never, order any pizza without sauce. But after I saw my friend try the Spinach Pie, I decided to give it a go. It has fresh spinach, aged and fresh mozzarella, Parm, oregano, and balsamic glaze. I tried it once and I’ve gotten it every time since. The balsamic takes it to the next level. I don’t even miss the red sauce. I’d also recommend getting it with a drizzle of Mike’s hot honey, which takes it to an even higher level. Salty, sweet, spicy, and a little acidic with the balsamic drizzle. What more do you need in life?

Before I get too carried away, I’ll leave you with the recommendation to check out Pizza Via as soon as possible. When you try the pizza, you’ll realize you’re not just grabbing a pie after work to scarf down because you need food. You’re experiencing a work of art. Everyone should have this experience at least once in their life.